Introducing a New Cat
Six phases, clear checklists and honest behaviour signals โ the cats set the pace, this planner guards the route.
The six phases
0% of the checklist donePrepare (before the new cat arrives)
โณ 1 day, before arrivalA separate, closable room for the newcomer prevents the first meeting from becoming a territorial fight. Everything you set up now, you won't have to arrange in a rush later.
Checklist
๐ข Going well when you see
- The room is complete and the door really closes
- Your current cat hasn't noticed anything unusual yet
๐ด Too fast when you see
- The 'separate room' is a passage room your current cat needs daily (pick another room)
How is it going in this phase?
The cats set the pace โ your observation decides the next step, not the calendar.
Tension often drops when both cats have enough to do โ the boredom test helps, and the litter box advice covers the number-one source of multi-cat conflict.
Why a slow introduction is actually faster
Cats are territorial animals: an unfamiliar cat that simply walks into the living room is not a new friend but an intruder. Vets and cat behaviourists have recommended the same protocol for years โ separate completely first, then exchange scents, then see each other with a barrier in between, and only then really meet. Each phase gives the cats the chance to get to know the other in the way that makes sense to cats: first with the nose, then with the eyes, only then with the paws. This planner turns that protocol into six phases with checklists and โ more importantly โ the green and red behaviour signals that tell you when to move on and when to step back. The calendar doesnโt set the pace; the cats do.
About to have more than one cat in the house? Then every cat deserves its own cat passport, and the litter box advice covers the most important house rule of the multi-cat home: the number of boxes is the number of cats plus one.
Frequently asked questions about introducing cats
How long does it take for cats to get used to each other?
It varies enormously: sometimes a week, often several weeks, and with sensitive cats months. The cats set the pace โ every phase lasts as long as the behaviour signals say it should. Slow and safe beats fast and tense: an introduction that went too fast takes far more time to repair afterwards than the patience you invest at the start.
Can you just put two cats together straight away?
It is not advisable. The risk of fighting, lasting fear and spraying is high, and a bad first meeting affects the relationship for months. The proven protocol goes via separation, scent exchange and visual contact with a barrier โ only then a real meeting. Exceptions exist (such as two kittens from the same litter), but for adult cats that donโt know each other, the slow route is the safe route.
What if the cats hiss at each other?
Hissing means: this pace is too high. Go back one phase in the plan and rebuild from there โ that is not a failure, that is how the protocol works. Brief hissing that resolves by itself is normal cat behaviour, certainly at the start. If the tension lasts for weeks, there is real fighting, or one of the cats starts spraying or structurally hiding, bring in a cat behaviourist or your vet โ the earlier, the easier it is to turn around.
What this plan is based on
The six phases follow the introduction protocol as Dutch veterinary chains and cat behaviourists describe and recommend it. The planner deliberately gives no fixed day schedules: every cat is different, and your catsโ behaviour is the only reliable measure. With structural aggression, spraying or fear, this plan is no substitute for professional help from a behaviourist or vet.
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